From Beautiful Beaches to the Gates of Hell

On New Zealand’s north island along the Bay of Plenty lies the seaside town of Tauranga.  With a population of just over 150,000, Tauranga is one of the fastest growing cities in the country.   As soon as you arrive, you feel like you are on vacation.  The most prominent landmark is Mount Maunganui and the trek to the top of the 761 ft dormant volcano will take about 45 minutes.  I’m told that for hikers that reach the top, the reward is an amazing panoramic view of Tauranga, the harbor and the endless coastline.

For my fellow non-hikers, the city is virtually surrounded by water and offers everything a beach lover could ask for; surfing, fishing, diving, sunbathing, and swimming.  After an afternoon on the water visitors can make their way to the downtown waterfront.  A small but lively area full of restaurants, bars, shops and boutiques.  Enough to keep a tourist occupied for hours. 

Traveling along the main street I was immediately taken with the many small to midsize modern beach homes.  I wished that I could rent one of those homes, even if it was just for a few days.  This was the kind of place where you naturally want to stay for a while.  I could easily envision myself sitting out on the porch with good book and chilled glass of wine breathing the fresh salt air and watching the waves.

Unfortunately, I wasn’t in one of those houses.  I was in a small van driving a long the main road.  We did stop at the beach and I was grateful to spend some time there.  It was the end of the season, most of the crowds had already departed and the weather was too cool for swimming.  Well, too cool for most people but the surfing crowd was still out in full force enjoying the waves of early autumn.

It was a short drive from the beach to the town of Rotorua and the geothermal reserve known as “Hell’s Gate”.   These reserves are generally found in regions where there is significant volcanic or tectonic activity underground that pushes heat and magma close to the surface of the earth.  This results in hot springs, mud pools, geysers and other types of geothermal phenomena. 

I’ve never been to Yellowstone in Wyoming, but I’m told that Hell’s Gate is similar.  It was a fascinating place to visit though not entirely pleasant.   As soon as we arrived, I was overwhelmed by the pungent smell of sulfur.   To put it bluntly, my first impression was that the place was stinky, sticky, and humid.  It was also unique, there is nothing like this close to home and I was eager to take a look.  I figured the I would get used to smell after a while. 

There was a marked, narrow pathway through the reserve that allowed visitors to view pools of bubbling brown water and springs so hot that you will see steam continuously rising all around you.  If you walk at a leisurely pace and pause often to take photos, you can complete the marked trail in about an hour.

In addition to the unique landscape, these hot springs are known to have therapeutic properties.  For centuries the native Māori used the waters and mud to heal their bodies after battle.  Today, visitors can likewise bath in the hot springs are immerse themselves into the mud baths.

Having never taken a mud bath before I was curious and wanted to give it a try.  I checked in and was handed a large plastic storage box then directed to the ladies changing room.  After changing into my swimsuit, an attendant pointed the way to one of the large mud pools.  I entered the thick, dark water and began imitate those around me by scooping a handful of mud out of one of the containers and smearing it over my body.

I had thought that the experience might have transported me back to childhood and the days of stomping in puddles after a heavy rain then plopping on the ground to dig into the wet soil and create mud pies.  But no, I didn’t feel like a kid again, I just felt dirty.  I had been told that the mud would relax my body, exfoliate my skin and leave me feeling refreshed.  While I was determined to keep an open mind.  I couldn’t really relax because I was too self-conscious around all of these strangers who were likewise covering their bodies in thick mud.  I felt ridiculous, but I did the full 20 minutes before climbing out and showering off.   The shower took quite a long time since there was mud in every crease of my body.  Places where mud definitely doesn't belong. Once fully clean I did notice that my skin was noticeably smoother and softer, so that was something I suppose. 

I then had the opportunity to soak in one of the many hot springs.  Obviously, since these are natural hot springs, they are not treated with chlorine or any type of chemicals beyond those that natural occur in the waters.  This means that the water isn’t clear but has the appearance of a dirty bath.  As someone used to swimming pools and hot tubs it felt strange to voluntarily immerse myself in a cloudy pool of grey.  Let’s just say that it was a mixed experience.  The cost of my newly acquired super soft skin was the slight but lingering smell of sulfur that lingered for days after my visit. 

As we traveled back to Tauranga, I was grateful to breathe in the fresh sea air once again.  Air that smelled clean, air that made me want to close my eyes and breathe deeply.   My skin may thank the thick mud of Rotorua but my nose will be forever grateful to the salt air of Tauranga.